Most lawn problems are mowing problems — height, frequency and a sharp blade do more than anything in a bag. Whether you’re on an established street near the shops or a new section climbing the hill, getting those three right matters more than how new the address is.
Tell us the street and we’ll give you a fixed price. Free, no obligation.
None of them cost anything. Get them right and most of what people spend money fixing later never happens in the first place.
Longer than most people cut. The leaf is what shades the soil beneath it, so a taller lawn holds its own moisture through a dry stretch instead of relying on you to make it up with a hose.
Remove more than a third of the blade in one pass and you strip the green, exposing pale stem with no chlorophyll left in it. That’s almost always the reason a lawn goes yellow after a cut — not the mower.
A blunt blade rips the leaf tip, and the frayed, ragged end goes pale within a day and loses moisture faster than a clean cut ever would. Ours get sharpened on a schedule, not swapped once they’ve already gone blunt.
This is the part that saves people money, and almost nobody explains it upfront.
Grass stores its energy in the leaf. Take a third off and the plant barely notices — it keeps growing and the clippings break down into the soil within hours.
Take half or more and you’ve removed most of its working surface. The plant stops pushing outward and spends a fortnight rebuilding what it lost instead — that’s why a hard cut yellows a lawn and a light one doesn’t.
Do that on repeat and the damage compounds. Each recovery leaves dead stem and runner behind, which builds toward a thatch layer between the grass and the soil — more of an issue on an established lawn that’s carried the same routine for years than on a lawn still settling into newly laid ground.
So the lawn left a month and cut hard isn’t saving you a visit — it’s buying a bigger job later, at a worse price.
Twenty minutes to an hour on most sections. You don’t need to be home for any of it.
Same order, every visit — whether it’s an established lawn or one still bedding in.
Clippings go back into the lawn by default. Cut finely and often they break down within hours and feed the soil for free. When there’s too much to mulch — an overgrown first cut, say — we catch and remove them instead, and that disposal is already in your price.
The one local thing worth knowing here, and it changes what the first few visits actually need.
Ōhauiti runs from the older, flatter streets around Ohauiti Road and the local shops to the newer hillside subdivisions climbing toward Oropi, like Quail Ridge Estate and Rowesdale Drive. Those two situations aren’t the same mowing job: an established lawn has years of settled routine behind it, while a section fresh off a hillside build is often still finding its feet.
Tell us if it’s a new lawn when you enquire. We’ll set the first few cuts a little higher and gentler while it beds in, at no extra cost.
Fixed once we’ve looked. Green waste and GST are both already in it.
New-build sections start a touch lower. Less to edge around while the garden’s still going in — the price adjusts up naturally as the section fills out.
Your schedule moves with the season on its own. Your rate doesn’t change when it does.
New lawns need closer watching that first season. A section still bedding in on fresh hillside topsoil can dry out and need a visit sooner than an established lawn nearby — we adjust the schedule as it settles in, not on a fixed clock.
Our section is one of the newer ones climbing the hill and I had no idea how to look after a brand-new lawn. They set the height higher for the first few cuts and explained why, and it’s properly thick now — none of the bare patches our neighbours are still dealing with.
Mostly about the lawn rather than about us, which is how it should be.
Weekly from about November to January, fortnightly either side, and every three to four weeks over winter. Growth slows through the cooler months rather than stopping outright, so a long winter gap usually means a thatchy, patchy lawn to deal with in spring.
No. As long as we can get to the lawn, you don’t need to be there — we’ll send a photo through once it’s done.
The visit gets moved. Mowing a saturated lawn tears the grass and leaves ruts, so we push to the next suitable day with notice. No charge for a visit that didn’t happen.
No. No minimum term, no cancellation fee, and a text is enough to pause or stop. Plenty of people pause over winter and start again in spring at no cost, though the first cut back is usually a bigger job.
Around 35 to 45mm through summer, longer than most people expect. The leaf shades the soil beneath it, so a taller lawn holds its own moisture through a dry spell rather than relying on watering to make up for it.
Yes. We cut new turf or hydroseed a touch higher for the first few visits while it roots into the hillside topsoil, and watch for any leftover builders’ debris. No extra charge for the adjustment.
Too much coming off in one pass. Take more than a third of the blade and you strip the green layer, exposing pale stem underneath with no chlorophyll in it. It’s almost never the mower — it’s the gap between cuts.
More than people think. A sharp blade slices the leaf cleanly; a blunt one tears it, and the frayed end loses moisture and gives disease somewhere to start. Ours get sharpened on a schedule rather than swapped once they’ve already gone blunt.
Most people add one or two of these, since we’re already on the property.
